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MALPUA
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I took a food halt during my evening walk and I was browsing in a famous sweet shop of Pune.
I saw a solitary Malpua floating in syrup.
You rarely see Malpua in Pune – so I felt like sampling it – but it seemed stale.
“Was this Malpua made in the morning…?” I asked the sweet shopkeeper (halwai).
“I will make fresh Malpua for you…” the shopkeeper said.
He took out frozen Malpua from the freezer – he heated the frozen Malpua in microwave oven – and he dipped the hot microwave “cooked” Malpua the sugar syrup in the tray – and – when the Malpua had soaked enough syrup – he packed it for me.
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Well – I didn’t like this improvised instant Malpua (see picture below)
So – I am posting my food blog on Malpua (with Recipe) for you to read.
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THE GREATEST LOVE – THE LOVE OF FOOD
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There is no greater love than the love of Eating
(The second-greatest love is the love of Cooking)
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MALPUA
“Delectable” Sweet “Pancake”
Story and Recipe by Vikram Karve
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One evening – around 18 years ago – in the year 2006 to be precise – while on my evening walk in Aundh Pune – it suddenly started raining – so I ducked into a building – where I discovered a sweet shop.
The voracious appetite created by the brisk walk – and the tempting array of sweets and savouries on display – made my mouth water and created an appetite in me – and I was wondering what to eat – when suddenly I discovered one of my favourite sweets – “Malpua” – displayed on the Menu Chart hung on the wall.
This was indeed a pleasant surprise – since I never imagined I would get Malpua in Pune.
And this pleasant surprise evoked nostalgic mouth-watering memories of the delicious Malpua-Kheer we savoured and devoured with gusto as a nourishing wholesome breakfast after bouts of heavy exercise on cold winter Sunday mornings long back in Varanasi (Benares).
We were young hungry youngsters – and those were indeed the good old gastronomic days of high calorie energizing winter breakfasts like Malpua-Kheer or piping hot Jalebi with Doodh (Milk) or Lavang Lata with freshly boiled thick creamy Doodh (Milk) dipped and eaten the same way as one eats khari biscuits with Irani Chai.
I was reminded of my Malpua-Kheer days.
So – I asked for Malpua and Kheer.
But – surprisingly – there was no Kheer.
So – I ordered a plate of Malpua.
And – I eagerly put a piece of the rich brown syrupy Malpua in my mouth.
It was terrible.
The Malpua tasted like boiled rubber drenched in sugar syrup.
The Malpua did not melt in the mouth – or dissolve gracefully on the palate – but disintegrated into brittle fragments and left a stodgy aftertaste.
This so-called “Malpua” had no characteristics of authentic Malpua.
For example:
The soft fluffy succulent lusciousness – the sweet-sour tang of banana and curd fermentation – the spicy fragrance of cardamom (elaichi) – and most important – the distinctive taste and classic flavour of saunf (badishep) – which are the hallmarks of authentic Malpua – all these attributes were conspicuous by their absence.
I was so disappointed – that I called the “Maharaj” – and I asked him how he had managed to so terribly “bungle and botch” this exquisite delicacy – and churn out this inexcusably appalling stuff – masquerading as Malpua.
“Simple…” he said, “Boil enough Milk till it becomes Rabdi – mix in Maida and make a smooth batter – fry the pancakes in pure Ghee – and soak in sugar syrup….”
“Just Milk and Maida…? That’s not how you make Malpua…” I told him, “What about the Banana, Saunf, Cardamom, Spices, Coconut, Dry Fruit, Curds…?”
“This is the Rajasthani Style Malpua…” he said sheepishly – and he disappeared.
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There are many versions of Malpua all over India – I have tasted the Rajasthani, Bengali, Karnataka, Maharashtrian, Gujarati, MP and UP versions.
Then there are improvisations like potato malpua, pineapple malpua, orange malpua etc…
There is also the inimitable, slurpy rich, heavy duty, invigorating and energizing hearty Malpua – braced and fortified with eggs – prepared in the evenings and nights during the holy month of Ramadan by Suleman Mithaiwala at Mohammed Ali Road near Minara Masjid in Mumbai.
This rich and heavy Malpua is a meal in itself – but – if you want you really want to do justice – it is better to start off with Kababs – relish the Malpua – and top up with cool sweet soothing Phirnee or Falooda.
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Tell me – in which regional genre of cuisine should Malpua be classified…?
A foodie friend told me that genuine Malpua is a sweet dish from Bihari Cuisine.
Dear Reader – do you agree that Malpua originated in Bihar…?
Well – that’s what my foodie friend said – Malpua is a speciality of Bihar – like Khaja – and – the best authentic Malpua is made Bihari Style.
And – this is how the wife of a Navy colleague from Bihar – who was an expert cook – made Malpua.
She made the best Malpua I have ever tasted.
Here is the recipe…
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MALPUA RECIPE
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STEP 1
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PREPARING THE BATTER
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1. Make a smooth batter with Maida
2. Add a pinch of baking soda and salt
3. Blend in fresh banana pulp
4. Pour in some fresh creamy milk
5. Add cardamom (choti elaichi) pods and cardamom powder.
6. Put in a small pinch of nutmeg powder.
7. Add freshly grated coconut
8. Put in some powdered and whole saunf
9. Blend in beaten curds
10. And – finally – if required – add some water to get the right pouring consistency.
11. Beat the batter well with your hands – till the batter becomes light and fluffy.
12. Cover the batter and leave aside for at least one hour or more for a bit of fermentation.
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STEP 2
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PREPARING SUGAR SYRUP
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1. Add one cup sugar to one cup water
2. Boil the water and sugar.
3. Add cardamom and cloves.
4. Boil to prepare 1:1 sugar syrup
(The term 1:1 sugar syrup means one-strand syrup – when you dip your fingers and pull apart – just one strand should form)
5. Sprinkle a little rosewater, saffron – or a bit of essence – if you want.
6. Keep the sugar syrup hot – at least warm – to facilitate easy ingress into the Malpua pancake – and to keep it soft and succulent.
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STEP 3
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MAKING MALPUA “PANCAKE”
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1. Take the fermented batter – mix and whip well with your hands – adding water if required – to get a smooth batter of pouring consistency.
2. Heat pure ghee in a deep frying pan.
(It is best to use pure ghee instead of oil)
3. Pour in a little bit of the batter into the hot ghee carefully – and deep-fry the pua (pancake) in pure ghee till nice and brown – soft and well-cooked – not too crisp.
4. When ready – take out the fried pua – and drain excess ghee.
5. Dip the pua in the hot sugar syrup completely for a minute – to enable just enough permeation of the hot sugar syrup into the pua – but take care to obviate over-sogginess.
6. With the sugar syrup absorbed – the “PUA” has now become “MALPUA”.
7. Now – the Malpua is ready to be eaten with deliciously sweet lip smacking Kheer.
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Dear Reader – I am sure you know how to make delicious Kheer.
Well – I prefer delicious Rice Kheer – but if you want – you can try it out with Vermicelli (Seviyan) Kheer – as long as you don’t make it too thick.
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HOW TO EAT MALPUA
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Malpua must be eaten with Kheer.
Malpua and Kheer is not a mere dessert, a pudding, or a snack – but a complete nourishing breakfast in its entirety.
In fact – Malpua and Kheer can even substitute a full meal.
The luscious wholesome combination is heavenly.
You will be overwhelmed with a wonderful feeling of blissful satiation.
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Dear Reader and Fellow Foodie:
Please tell us about your favourite Malpua – where you ate it.
And – if you happen to live in Pune – do let us know where we can relish authentic Malpua in Pune.
Happy Eating…!!!
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VIKRAM KARVE
Copyright © Vikram Karve
1. If you share this post, please give due credit to the author Vikram Karve
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© vikram karve., all rights reserved.
Disclaimer:
- This is an improvised recipe – so try it at your own risk.
- All stories in this blog are a work of fiction. Events, Places, Settings and Incidents narrated in the story are a figment of my imagination. The characters do not exist and are purely imaginary. Any resemblance to persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.
- E&OE
Copyright Notice:
No part of this Blog may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Blog Author Vikram Karve who holds the copyright.
Copyright © Vikram Karve (All Rights Reserved)
Link to my source blog post in my Academic and Creative Writing Journal Vikram Karve: http://karvediat.blogspot.com/2017/02/malpua-foodie-memories-and-recipe.html
© vikram karve., all rights reserved.
This article written by me Vikram Karve around 18 years ago in the year 2006. The article is included in my book APPETITE FOR A STROLL (2008) and was posted online by me a number of times in my blogs at urls:https://vwkarve.wordpress.com/2007/06/15/malpua-and-kheer/ and http://karvediat.blogspot.in/2011/03/malpua.html and http://karvediat.blogspot.in/2012/09/eating-out-in-pune-for-sweet-tooth.html and https://karve.wordpress.com/2019/06/30/malpua-delicious-sweet/ and https://karve.wordpress.com/2021/11/13/food-blog-malpua-delectable-sweet-pancake/ etc
© vikram karve., all rights reserved.
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